April 17, 2004

Single in Srinagar

Strolling through the ancient Mogul gardens, lined with massive maple trees. Floating on a shikara though Srinagar's winding canals and her floating gardens. Sitting on our palatial houseboat, surrounded by the snow-capped Pir Panjal range to the south and west and the mighty Himalayas rearing up in the east. Sipping Kasmiri tea and watching the sun setting over beautiful Dal Lake. This must be one of the most romantic cities in the world. Srinagar really is a shitty place for two single guys!



We'd never even planned to go to Kashmir in the first place. Apart from shawls and a rockin' Led Zeppelin song, the only thing we’d heard about Kashmir in recent times was the fighting. But things seem to have improved in the last few years. The threat of violence has diminished; the tourists are slowly returning; and the houseboats are slowly starting to see customers again.



But Kashmir still has an identity crisis. Of the Kashmiris I've met who have settled in other parts of India, having fled their homeland during the dark times, most still seem reluctant to return. There are those that still want Kashmir’s independence, and many others who still wish to see Kashmir a part of Muslim Pakistan. Most Kashmiris talk of India as if it was a foreign country, and I can’t help but notice how few tears are shed as Pakistan thrashes India in the first test match in Multan.



But despite it's problems, I think Kashmir would have to be my favourite part of India so far (if this really is part of India at all...).

Posted by Andrew Wallace @ 3:55 PM